Sightseeing in und um Oaxaca

Nach einem Fußballspiel von Osmars High-School Mannschaft (3:1 gewonnen… yaay!) am Nachmittag und einem wie gewohnt lustigen Lucha Libre-Abend in der „Arena Coliseo Guadalajara“, geht am frühen Vormittag des Folgetages mein Flieger nach Oaxaca.

In Oaxaca habe ich mir bereits von Deutschland aus das Hostel „Casa del Sol“ ausgesucht und für zunächst 2 Nächte ein Bett im Schlafsaal reserviert. Dort angekommen bin ich von der Reise ziemlich erschöpft, weshalb ich nur noch einen kleinen Spaziergang um das Hostel mache und anschließend im Patio den Abend ausklingen lasse.

Am nächsten Tag schaue ich mir die Stadt ein weniger genauer an. Das historische Zentrum der Stadt gehört seit mehr als 2 Jahrzehnten zum UNESCO Weltkulturerbe. Es gibt eine Menge Kirchen und Museen zu bestaunen und generell etliche gemütliche Straßen zum Rumschlendern:

Besonders gut gefällt mir der Mercado 20 de Noviembre. Dieser Großmarkt erstreckt sich über 2 Hallen im Zentrum Oaxacas. In der einen Halle werden hauptsächlich Kleidungsstücke sowie Klüngelkram und in der anderen Lebensmittel verkauft. Da Klüngelkram nicht so meins ist, bin ich durch die erste Halle schnell durch… in der zweiten ist es für mich deutlich interessanter. Viele kleine Stände mit Gewürzen, Obst/Gemüse, Backwaren und Fleisch. Zudem viele kleine Restaurants, in denen die typischen mexikanischen Gerichte aber vor Allem Spezialitäten aus Oaxaca zubereitet werden. Dazu zählen die Tlayudas aber auch die vielen verschiedenen Mole-Varianten (Saucen), welche zwischen 35 und 75 verschiedene Zutaten enthalten können und über einen sehr langen Zeitraum eingekocht werden müssen.

Nach dem vielen Gucken und all den (meist) leckeren Düften in meiner Nase, will ich natürlich in einem der kleinen Restaurants etwas essen. Ich entscheid mich für das Traditionsgericht: Tlayuda – eine riesige, knusprig gebackene Tortilla mit Bohnenmuß, Salat, Fleisch (in meinem Fall Rind, Chorizo und mariniertes Schweinefleisch) und Käse:

Wie bisher eigentlich alle Gerichte: sehr lecker! 🙂

Am nachfolgenden Tag geht es mit Rahel und Florian, die ich im Hostel kennengelernt habe, auf eine 8,5 stündige Sightseeing-Tour… das volle Touriprogramm: Árbol del Tule, Weberei, Mezcal-Fabrik, Mitla und Hierve el Agua.

Bei Árbol del Tule (der Baum von Tule) handelt es sich um einen um die 1500 Jahre alten Baum, welcher mit gut 14 Metern Breite zugleich der dickste Baum der Welt ist.
Anschließend besuchen wir eine der vielen Webereien im Umland von Oaxaca. Bereits im Kindesalter beginnen die in diesem Gebiet lebenden Zapoteken das Handwerk der Weberei zu erlernen. Die benötigte Wolle wird von den eigenen Schafsherden, benötigte Farben aus Pflanzensäften und Mineralien gewonnen.
In Mitla besuchen wir Ruinen der Zapotekenstadt die höchstwahrscheinlich zwischen 500 v. Chr. bis 200 n. Chr. errichtet wurde – genaue Daten sind leider nicht Verfügbar, da wohl alle Aufzeichnungen von den spanischen Conquisdatoren vernichtet wurden. Beeindruckend auf jeden Fall, wie ohne Rad und fehlende Lasttiere diese enormen Massen an Gestein transportiert und aufeinander gesetzt wurden.
Als nächstes geht es zum Hierve el Agua, mein persönlicher Höhepunkt. 70 km von der Hauptstadt entfernt findet man hier 2 versteinerte Wasserfälle. Über tausende von Jahren hinweg wurden diese durch unzählige Tropfen von kohlensäurehaligem Wasser, die am Kopf des Berges ihren Ursprung haben, Schicht für Schicht „erschaffen“. Grund hierfür sind Ablagerungen, die auf den hohen Mineralgehalt des Wassers zurückzuführen sind.

Am darauf folgenden Tag steht die Weiterreise nach Mazunte auf dem Plan. Da Pablo, welchen ich auf der Sightseeing-Tour kennengelernt hatte, und ich allerdings den Nachtbus nehmen wollen, haben wir uns dazu entschlossen auf den Monte Albán zu fahren, um uns dort die Ruinen der damaligen Hauptstadt der Zapoteken anzuschauen:

Wiederrum sehr beeindruckend – unglaubliche Dimensionen!

Leider habe ich wohl die Stärke der Sonne ein wenig unterschätzt… nein kein Sonnenbrand 😉 doch besonders gut geht es mir am Abend nicht. Es kommt mir vor wie ein leichter Anflug eines Sonnenstichs. Trotz Kappe auf dem Kopf waren gut 6 Std. in der Sonne wohl doch zu viel – Übelkeit, Kopfschmerzen und permanent ein fiebriges Gefühl. Nach einem Abschieds-Kamillentee im Hostel und unserer nicht besonders erholsamen Nachtfahrt nach Mazunte (dazu im nächsten Artikel mehr) ist aber alles wieder in Ordnung.

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Marcel

28 Jahre alt - Softwareentwickler aus Hamburg und temporärer Rucksackreisender

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1.160 Responses

  1. Thomas sagt:

    Wie hoch warst Du denn auf dem Monte Alban?

  2. Friedrich sagt:

    Herzlichen Glückwunsch zum Geburtstag, Marcel! 🙂 Hoffe es passt weiterhin alles gut! Eine tolle Zeit und ebensolche Partys – besonders heute – wünsch ich dir.

  3. rahel sagt:

    haha marcel, so wies aussieht, kommst du nicht zum schreiben, pppffff**
    muss jetzt noch manchmal über das schildkrötenkidnapping und deine geklauten schuhe lachen und denk mit ehrfurcht an die schildkrötli…hoffe deine reise ist weiterhin top und dass du bald deinen schatz in die arme schliessen kannst! mich holt morgen der alltag wieder ein-möh. alles liebe aus züri, rahel

    • Marcel sagt:

      Heyho, ja es fällt mir tatschächlich schwer, Zeit zum Schreiben zu finden. Aber ich habe immerhin schon die Fotos von Mazunte sortiert und für die Verwendung in meinem Blog aufbereitet. 😉
      Hab mich über eure Mail und über die Nachricht, dass es euch trotz des Erdbebens gut geht sehr gefreut!

      Bin jetzt gerade aufm Sprung zu einer kleinen Insel namens Caye Tobacco in Belize.
      Komm also gut wieder in den Alltag und richte Flo schöne Grüße aus!

      lg Marcel

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